Breaking news in the world of adventure sports, Babsi Zangerl has just reported her successful ascent of Magic Line, a challenging 5.14c crack spanning 35 meters near Vernal Falls in Yosemite. This feat places her alongside a select group of climbers who have managed to conquer both Magic Line and Meltdown.
Magic Line was first scaled by Ron Kauk in 1996, utilizing the pinkpoint style. This remarkable route remained unchallenged for over two decades until 2016 when it was repeated by Kauk's son, Lonnie, using pre-placed gear. He went on to make the first redpoint ascent, placing all gear on lead, and thus raising the route grade from 5.14b to 5.14c.
Following this, Hazel Findlay achieved the first female ascent in 2019, followed by Carlo Traversi in 2022, and most recently, Connor Herson last month. Zangerl's triumph sets her alongside Traversi and Herson as the elite few who have mastered both Magic Line and Meltdown 5.14c within Yosemite's rugged terrain.
Zangerl reflected on her accomplishment on Instagram, stating, 'What a line, what a journey. With half of the foothold gone in that very insecure crux, I was not sure if I would have the strength to push through. I lost track of how many times I slipped, each one chipping away my confidence a bit. But after putting in so much time, I couldn’t walk away just yet.'
She continued, 'Honestly, it’s these kinds of climbs that make me appreciate climbing even more. Every challenge, every setback – it all adds to the journey, and the lessons learned along the way are invaluable. I feel incredibly lucky to be able to experience moments like this. There’s so much room for growth in climbing and with every struggle comes the chance to surprise yourself, if you are willing to keep showing up!'
At 36, Zangerl's climbing portfolio is as diverse as it is impressive, encompassing bouldering, sport climbing, and trad single pitch, multi-pitch, and big wall climbing. She was the first woman to ascend V12/13 with Pura Vida in 2008 and has sport climbed up to 5.14d (9a), including Speed Integrale and Sprengstoff, both in Austria. Her list of trad climbing achievements includes Meltdown 5.14c, Magic Line 5.14c, Le Voyage E10 7a, Prinzip Hoffnung E9, Muy Caliente! E9, The Path 5.14aR, and Greenspit 5.14-, among many others, including Magic Mushroom, a 900-metre 5.14a on El Cap.